(1) I use a mulching blade and only bag the grass when I need a shot of nitrogen in the compost pile -- about once every three months. This means that I leave the grass on the lawn after I cut it. But it's in such small pieces that you don't notice that it's there.
In fact, I rake leaves and other garden debris onto the grass before I cut. This adds to the humus.
(2) I raise the blade way high during the summer -- about twice as high as any of my neighbors' lawns -- almost as high as it goes. At first you'll think it's ridiculously high. But higher grass provides better protection from the sun and more moisture retention.
I do fertilize once each year in February, giving the grass half the recommended treatment of a generic slow release fertilizer to provide a jump start for the spring. But that's it and I could probably get away without it. Generally speaking, no other treatment for weeds or pests is necessary -- if you mulch and keep the grass high during the summer.
BTW, I walk 2.48 miles each time I cut the grass in our yard. I wore my pedometer this morning. Aerobic yardwork! No gym fee required.
3 comments:
This post caught my eye on Covenant Blogs . . . keep up the good work. You have an ecologist's approval for the common sense and wry humor in addition to the lawn care practices.
Peace.
Brad,
Here in GR we are dry (well, some recent good rain). And our little yard has alot of cement around it. So those in our neighborhood who have good yards have pretty significant irrigation going on.
Just a thought that I'm guessing your weather is better.
But thanks for your advice (I have a Scotts reel mower, by the way. I like it, though it doesn't do well on weeds or crabb grass!)
We generally don't have rain between May and October. All lawns are irrigated. The temperature the past few days has been 109 degrees. The higher lawns can take the heat better.
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